Indore for a weekend

Start at Sarafa, but go late - the jewellery shops shut around ten and the food stalls take over the same street until two in the morning. Order the garadu in winter, the bhutte ka kees whenever.

Saturday morning belongs to Rajwada, ideally before the crowds. The palace is worth an hour, the streets around it worth two. Walk to the Kanch Mandir afterwards; the mirror work is genuinely disorienting in the best way.

Sunday, go slow. Coffee in Vijay Nagar, then out towards Patalpani if the monsoon has been kind.